Travel Guide
Azerbaijan
Two days in Baku: Soviet buildings, wind, Karbala soil, Flame Towers, bargaining at the green market and a ~$7 hostel.
In short
I never imagined Azerbaijan like this; I thought it was underdeveloped, but Baku has turned into a European-looking city. I took the H1 bus from the airport to the centre; cash is not accepted, you need a card. The outsides of the buildings look good, the insides can feel like a horror film: my first hotel was 120 years old.
First day in the Old City (İçərişəhər): walled streets going back to the 7th century BC, UNESCO-protected. Juma Mosque, Maiden Tower and a restaurant meal of qutab, dovga and tandir bread for about $7. At the mosque doors you will see the Karbala soil that Shias place in front of their prayer mats.
The modern face is striking too: the Flame Towers, Heydar Aliyev Center, a Venice-style artificial lake and Nizami Street. The terrace at Martyrs’ Lane and Bibi-Heybat Mosque gave the best views.
At the green market prices are not written, bargaining is essential. I checked market, phone and tent prices; both chicken and meat doner cost about $1.50. Turkish citizens can stay visa-free for up to 90 days (biometric ID card is also valid for direct travel).
Route
Main stops from the video.
H1 bus & card
H1 buses go straight to the centre. Cash not accepted; buy a card (≈$1.20) + top-up from the machine. The card only works in Baku.
UNESCO, Maiden Tower, Juma Mosque
Walls dating to the 7th century BC. Maiden Tower (≈$9), Juma Mosque (former Zoroastrian fire temple), Karbala soil. Nearby Haji Bayram Bath.
Qutab + dovga + tandir ≈ $7
Cheese, spinach, meat and egg qutab; dovga soup and tandir bread. Expect to wait for a table in busy restaurants.
Flame Towers & Heydar Aliyev
Three skyscrapers – the Flame Towers. Venice-style artificial lake, underpasses (walls like artworks). Heydar Aliyev Center (may be under renovation).
Terrace & Bibi-Heybat Mosque
Terrace for the view. 5 km walking path, Flame Towers panorama. Bibi-Heybat dates to the 13th century, rebuilt in the 1990s. They lend trousers if you wear shorts.
Bargaining required
No prices written. Peaches dropped from 4 ₼ to 2. Watch for tourist prices. Börek is cheaper at the market.
Transport, stay and food
Bus card
Cash not accepted. Card ≈$1.20, top-up separate. Only valid in Baku; you need a new card in other cities.
SIM card
Expensive at the airport (~$23). In the city you can get ≈$15 for 6 GB.
Cheap hostels
Sahil Hostel and similar places ≈$7 per night. Prefer ones with a kitchen; supermarkets are cheap.
Food
Qutab + soup + bread ≈$7. Doner (chicken/meat) ≈$1.50. Cooking from the market is cheaper.
Visa
Turkish citizens: 90 days visa-free. Biometric ID card also works for direct travel. Registration required if staying more than 15 days.
Walking is best
Few pedestrian crossings, underpasses instead. Metro is small and without air-con; most places are within walking distance.
Places to see
Old City (İçərişəhər)
UNESCO. Walls, narrow streets, historic fabric. Free to walk around; museums charge entry.
Maiden Tower
Dated to the 4th century BC. Entry ≈$9. Symbol of the Old City.
Flame Towers
Three modern skyscrapers. Define the city skyline. Night lighting is impressive.
Heydar Aliyev Center
Designed by Zaha Hadid. Museum and exhibition space. Roof walkway may close during renovations.
Juma Mosque & Bibi-Heybat
Juma Mosque stands on a former fire-temple site. Bibi-Heybat 13th century, rebuilt. Mind the dress code.
Martyrs’ Lane
Terrace views, Flame Towers and the bay. 5 km walking path.
Photos
Practical warnings
Cash not accepted
Buses do not take cash. Buy a card from the machine. Troy cards can cause payment problems.
Buy the SIM in the city
Airport prices are high. In the city you can find a better package for ≈$15.
Bargain at the market
No prices written at the green market. They may try tourist prices; always bargain.
Dress code at mosques
If you wear shorts they lend trousers. Knee-length and covered arms are enough.
Use the underpasses
Few pedestrian crossings. Metro is small and without AC; walking is often more practical.
Choose a hostel with a kitchen
Supermarkets are cheap. You can quickly cook eggs and peppers. About $7 per night.
Videos
Azerbaijan journey video.
European outside, surprises inside
Baku impresses with its modern skyline, but the old streets, bargaining culture and local flavours tell the real story. Get a card, bargain, and walk.
Keep some manat, buy the SIM in the city and explore Baku on foot.
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