1. The Dirtiest Country I've Visited — Dhaka
Airport, visa, dust, biryani and first impressions.
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Travel GuideBangladesh
Travel Guide
Bangladesh
Dhaka's chaos, the millions at Bishwa Ijtema, Korail's slum reality and Chittagong's Mezbaan feast: an intense, rough and unforgettable country. Visa on arrival, prices and route — all in US dollars.
~175 millionPopulation
$51Visa on arrival (30 days)
$10Hotel in Dhaka, per night
$5.5Hotel in Chittagong, per night
5–6 hrsDhaka → Chittagong train
$2.3Train ticket (Shovan)
What to know before you go
The six most important things for travelling to Bangladesh.
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Visa
With a Turkish passport I got a visa on arrival at the airport: 30-day stay, about $51 in cash dollars. Rules can change, so confirm with the Bangladesh embassy or the official website before you fly.
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Money
Bring clean, newer cash dollars and change them in the city; rates and ATMs at the airport can be a problem.
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SIM card
At the airport a 25 GB / 1-month SIM costs about $5.7. In the market the price can double. You need your passport to register.
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Air quality
Air pollution in Dhaka is heavy; wear an N95 mask. November–February is cool and dry, but pollution is worst in winter.
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Route
2–3 days in Dhaka, then the train to Chittagong: 5–6.5 hours, tickets from $2.3.
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Bishwa Ijtema
Held every year in Tongi in late January–February, in two phases; dates are announced each year. The airport road can take hours during those days.
In short
Bangladesh is one of the most crowded countries on earth, with a population close to 175 million and about 1,200 people per km². The moment you land in Dhaka, the call to prayer, smoke and a thick layer of dust greet you. The air pollution is so heavy that without a mask you start getting short of breath after a few hours.
The first days are dominated by the feeling of “the dirtiest country I've ever visited”. But then Bishwa Ijtema's open-air mosque where millions gather, the striking slum reality of Korail Basti, Chittagong's cleaner streets and the Mezbaan feast take over. Chaotic and demanding, yet a country that leaves a deep mark.
Route
From Dhaka to Chittagong, in order.
Arrival
Hazrat Shahjalal Airport and the first shock
A 1 hour 10 minute flight from India lands you in Dhaka. The call to prayer sounds in the airport, with smoke and dust in the air. Visa on arrival costs about $51 (30 days). Changing money at the airport is hard; it is easier in the city. The first impression was heavy: “what a terrible place”, I thought. But biryani and $0.08 mint tea eased things a little.
SIM & Hotel
SIM at the airport, hotel in the city
Outside the airport I bought a 25 GB / 1-month SIM for about $5.7 (double that in the market). Hotel Ali International was $10 a night — pricey but central. Chaos when you look out of the room, comfort once you're in. Walking the streets without an N95 mask is hard.
Bishwa Ijtema
The world's largest open-air gathering for worship
Millions of Muslims from 64 districts and all over the world gather at Tongi on the bank of the Turag River. A 24-hour open-air mosque, ablution pools, beds, free food and “walk tea”. The aim is to renew faith, increase religious knowledge and strengthen brotherhood. The ground is so vast it feels like “a small city”.
Korail Basti
Bangladesh's biggest slum
Weak electricity and water infrastructure, tin shacks, a polluted lake, alleys full of rubbish. We reached it by InDrive motorbike taxi in about 95 minutes. A different world, enough to make you say “this is the first time I've seen a pavement since I arrived”. A tough place to explore alone.
Train
Dhaka → Chittagong: 6 hours
When Dhaka's pollution and shortness of breath became unbearable I escaped by train. The train is clean, with charging points and a toilet. They said 9 hours; we arrived in 6. A Shovan ticket cost about $2.3. People riding on top of the train is a common sight. It was my first train journey ever.
Chittagong
Clean streets and Mezbaan
Clearly different from Dhaka: cleaner streets, narrow but decent roads, electric cables like creepers. The hotel is an 18-minute walk from the station, around $5.5 a night. Prices are “cheaper than water”. Mezbaan culture peaks here — dozens of cauldrons, a few cows, food for thousands.
Transport and accommodation: how much does it cost?
All prices in USD.
🚆 Transport
| Visa (airport)30 days · cash USD | ~$51 |
| SIM cardairport · 25 GB / 1 month | ~$5.7 |
| Dhaka → Chittagong train5–6.5 hrs · Shovan | from $2.3 |
| Faster intercity trainsame line, pricier classes | ~$3–5 |
| City busDhaka | ~$0.1–0.25 |
| Motorbike taxi (InDrive)to Korail ~95 min | see the app |
🛏️ Accommodation
| Dhaka, Hotel Alicentral, per night | $10 |
| Chittagong, hotelsingle room, bathroom | $5.5 |
| Changing moneybetter in the city | Taka (BDT) |
What to eat and how much does it cost?
Key dishes and approximate prices (USD).
🍚 Main dishes
| Biryanirice with meat, Dhaka and Chittagong | ~$1.2–1.6 |
| Teamint-flavoured | ~$0.08 |
| Mezbaancommunal beef feast · wedding/funeral culture | cheap and filling |
Mezbaan is Chittagong's most famous dish. It is prepared at 5 a.m. over wood fires; dozens of cauldrons, black and white meat varieties, plenty of spices. Some kitchens can feed 40,000 people. The same quality and flavour at every branch.
Things to see: Dhaka
Highlights in the capital.
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Hazrat Shahjalal Airport
The entry point. The call to prayer, smoke and dust hit you straight away. Visa on arrival ~$51. A first impression so intense you wonder “did I land in India?”.
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Bishwa Ijtema
One of the world's largest open-air places of worship. Open 24 hours, ablution pools, beds, free food and millions of people. It aims at brotherhood and renewing faith.
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Korail Basti
The country's largest slum. Tin shacks, infrastructure problems, striking reality. Tough to explore alone, but unforgettable.
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Street biryani and tea
The biggest comfort in the first days. Mint tea costs about $0.08, biryani is filling and delicious. A small break in the middle of the chaos.
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The air pollution reality
Staying outside for long without a mask is hard. N95 recommended. Dhaka has some of the worst air quality of all the countries I've visited.
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Money and SIM
Changing money at the airport is hard. Buy your SIM at the airport too (~$5.7). In the city prices can double.
Things to see: Chittagong
The city where you can breathe after Dhaka.
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Train station and the journey
Clean train, charging, toilet. People riding on the roof is a common sight. Arrival in 6 hours.
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Chittagong's streets
Cleaner and tidier than Dhaka. Electric cables like spider webs but the roads are decent. Prices are clearly more affordable.
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Mezbaan kitchen
Preparation starts at 5 a.m. in Chittagong's biggest restaurants. Dozens of cauldrons, heavily spiced beef. Part of wedding and funeral culture.
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Karnaphuli River
The river running through the middle of the city. Ships, wooden boats, riverside views. It can feel like a historical film set.
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Affordable stays
Clean hotels around $5.5 a night are easy to find, with options within walking distance of the station.
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Market and cheap prices
“Cheaper than water” is real here. Shorts cost about $2, and biryani and fruit are plentiful and cheap.
Photos
Good to know
Practical notes.
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A mask is a must — N95 recommended
Air pollution and dust in Dhaka are very intense. Without a mask, coughing and shortness of breath start after a few hours. Glasses help too.
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Change money in the city
ATMs and exchange at the airport can be problematic; arriving with newer cash dollars and changing in the city is easier.
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Buy your SIM at the airport
A 25 GB / 1-month package costs about $5.7. In the market the price can double. Agree the price in advance with rickshaws and motorbike taxis.
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The train is clean and usable
The Dhaka–Chittagong line takes 5–6.5 hours; a Shovan ticket is about $2.3. The train is clean with charging points. Be ready for the sight of people riding on top.
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Dhaka is pricey, Chittagong is cheap
A central hotel in Dhaka is around $10. In Chittagong you can stay more comfortably for $5.5. Check reviews before booking.
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Mind the Bishwa Ijtema period
Held at Tongi, on the Turag, every year in late January–February in two phases. During those days traffic in Dhaka and on the airport road can take hours; check the dates in advance.
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Try Mezbaan
Chittagong's signature dish. Communally prepared, heavily spiced beef. Cheap, filling and culturally important.
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Don't go to Korail alone
The biggest slum. Weak infrastructure, a demanding environment. If possible visit with a guide or in a safe way.
Budget note: cheap but tough
Bangladesh is very affordable in price terms. The real difficulty is pollution, crowds and infrastructure. Spending a few days in Dhaka and then moving on to Chittagong is the most sensible route.
AccommodationAbout $10 in Dhaka, $5.5 in Chittagong.
TransportVisa ~$51, SIM ~$5.7, train 5–6.5 hrs / from $2.3.
FoodBiryani ~$1.2–1.6, tea ~$0.08, Mezbaan filling and cheap.
Chaotic and tiring as it is, Bishwa Ijtema's crowds, Korail's reality and the Mezbaan feast make Bangladesh unforgettable.
FAQ: travelling in Bangladesh
The questions people search for most, with short answers.
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Can Turkish citizens get a visa on arrival in Bangladesh?
Yes. With a Turkish passport you can enter Bangladesh with a visa on arrival at the airport, for a stay of 30 days. I paid about $51 in cash dollars. Rules and fees can change, so confirm with the Bangladesh embassy before you go.
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How much does a day in Bangladesh cost?
Bangladesh is very cheap: a central hotel is $10 a night in Dhaka and $5.5 in Chittagong; biryani is about $1.2–1.6, mint tea about $0.08, and a Dhaka–Chittagong train ticket starts at $2.3.
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How do you get from Dhaka to Chittagong?
The train is easiest: 5–6.5 hours, a Shovan ticket about $2.3, clean carriages with charging points. There are also buses and domestic flights; flying is much more expensive.
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When is the best time to visit Bangladesh?
November–February is cool and dry, but Dhaka's air pollution peaks in winter, so an N95 mask is essential. When Bishwa Ijtema falls in late January–February, Dhaka gets extremely crowded.
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What is Bishwa Ijtema, where and when is it held?
One of the world's largest Muslim gatherings after the Hajj. It takes place just north of Dhaka at Tongi on the bank of the Turag River, in two phases since 2011. Dates are announced every year, usually late January–February.
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Where do you buy a SIM card in Bangladesh and what does it cost?
Buy it at the airport exit: a 25 GB / 1-month package is about $5.7. In the market the price can double. You need your passport to register.
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What is Mezbaan?
Chittagong's most famous dish: heavily spiced beef cooked communally at weddings and funerals. It starts at 5 a.m. over wood fires, and big kitchens can feed 40,000 people. Cheap and filling.
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Is Bangladesh safe and what should I watch out for?
The real challenges are air pollution, crowds and infrastructure. Wear an N95 mask, agree prices in advance with rickshaws and taxis, and don't go alone to slum areas like Korail.
Nearby routes and guides
Where to next after Bangladesh?
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India
Bangladesh's neighbour; the Taj Mahal and Indian food.
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Nepal
Mountains, trekking and Kathmandu.
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Sri Lanka
The island: trains, tea gardens, beaches.
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Pakistan
Another face of South Asia.
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Visa & insurance guide
Visa and insurance tips before you go (Turkish).
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Budget guide
How to travel far on little money (Turkish).
Videos
6 videos from the Bangladesh journey (in Turkish). Click a card and the video opens here.
2. They Come From All Over the World
Bishwa Ijtema — open-air mosque, millions of people.
▶ Open on YouTube3. How Does a Muslim Country End Up Like This
Illness in Dhaka, escaping to Chittagong by train.
▶ Open on YouTube5. Giant Beef Feast for 40,000 People
Mezbaan culture — Chittagong's signature dish.
▶ Open on YouTube6. Train Journey — Dhaka to Chittagong
First train journey, 6 hours, clean carriages.
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