Travel Notes
Diyarbakır
From the Great Mosque to the City Walls, from Ciğerci Remzi to the Tigris River: one day in the heart of Southeastern Türkiye.
In brief
The Great Mosque (formerly the Church of the Virgin Mary) is regarded as the fifth holy sanctuary of Islam. Built of basalt, it was converted into a mosque in the 1100s. Next to it, in the Mesudiye Madrasa, there are two rotating columns, which are used to test the structure's soundness.
Deliller Inn (1500s) hosted pilgrim guides and is still a hotel today. It stays 5 degrees cooler than outside. The gap above the Mardin Gate is deliberate engineering, designed to keep the gate from cracking.
From the Keçi Tower you get a view over Diyarbakır and the walls that have stood for 1,400 years. The Four-Legged Minaret (no mortar, just stone stacked on stone) has bullet holes but still stands.
Food: Ciğerci Remzi serves a generous portion of liver with salad, plus walnut kadayıf on the side (the best in Diyarbakır). Selim Amca has been cooking ribs for 45 years, with içli köfte, stuffed bumbar and ribs with rice.
İçkale (the Inner Castle): two museums, thousands of artifacts and the Kavuş mound (700 BC). At the Hazrat Suleiman Mosque, 23 companions of the Prophet fell as martyrs during the conquest. The walls are the second longest in the world after the Great Wall of China; they are basalt and are currently being fully restored. The Tigris River and its waterfall (the water is sometimes cut off).
Route, in order
From the Great Mosque to the Tigris River.
Great Mosque & Mesudiye Madrasa
The fifth holy sanctuary of Islam, built of basalt and converted into a mosque in the 1100s. The madrasa has two rotating columns: one turns with difficulty, the other with even more difficulty, as a durability test.
Deliller Inn (Hotel Kervansaray)
Built in the 1500s, it housed pilgrim guides (deliller). It is still a hotel and stays 5°C cooler than outside. Ideal for a tea and a rest.
Mardin Gate & Keçi Tower
The gap above the gate keeps the weight of the upper wall from breaking it. From the top of the Keçi Tower you get a view of the walls and the city.
Four-Legged Minaret
No mortar was used, only stone stacked on stone. It has stood for centuries. It has bullet holes (a sad detail). Up close it is hard to believe.
Ciğerci Remzi
A generous portion of liver with salad. Walnut kadayıf on the side, and he calls it the best place in the city for Diyarbakır kadayıf.
Two museums & Hazrat Suleiman Mosque
Thousands of artifacts and the Kavuş mound (700 BC). 23 companions of the Prophet fell as martyrs during the conquest. The mosque is crowded like a fair every day.
Selim Amca — Ribs
In the same place for 45 years. İçli köfte, bumbar and ribs (with rice). The meat falls apart in your mouth. A full portion for two.
Diyarbakır City Walls & the Tigris River
5.5 km of basalt, 2nd in the world after the Great Wall of China. Restoration is ongoing. Climb to the top for a view of the Tigris. Glass terrace over the waterfall (the water may be cut off).
Places to see
The main stops in Diyarbakır.
Great Mosque
From the Church of the Virgin Mary to a mosque. The fifth holy sanctuary. Basalt stone, cool and peaceful.
Mesudiye Madrasa
12th century. Two rotating columns serve as a durability test and show how solid the structure is.
Deliller Inn
A 16th-century inn that is still a hotel. Pilgrim guides used to stay here. 5°C cooler inside, with a pleasant tea garden.
Mardin Gate
The gap above the gate is engineering: it keeps the weight of the upper wall from breaking the gate.
Keçi Tower
A panorama of the city and the walls. You can climb up, and the view is wonderful.
Four-Legged Minaret
No mortar, just stone stacked on stone. It has stood for centuries. Bullet marks remain.
Ciğerci Remzi
Generous portions of liver and salad. Walnut kadayıf on the side, the best in the city.
Selim Amca Ribs
45 years in the same spot. İçli köfte, bumbar and ribs with rice. The meat is tender and falls apart in your mouth.
İçkale Museums
Two museums, thousands of artifacts. The Kavuş mound dates to 700 BC. Panels tell the story of the conquest.
Hazrat Suleiman Mosque
23 companions of the Prophet fell as martyrs during the conquest. Their graves are within the grounds. Crowded every day.
Diyarbakır City Walls
5.5 km of basalt, the 2nd longest in the world. Being fully restored. A walk along the top is a pleasure.
Tigris River & Waterfall
A view from the top of the walls. A waterfall below the glass terrace (the water is cut off on some days).
What to eat and what it costs
Prices are in Turkish lira (TRY); prices change from year to year.
🍽️ Food
| Liver portion + saladCiğerci Remzi | ~300–400 TRY |
| Walnut kadayıfCiğerci Remzi | ~150–200 TRY |
| Ribs for twoSelim Amca (içli köfte, bumbar, rice) | ~600–800 TRY |
| TeaDeliller Inn / Mardin Gate | ~30–50 TRY |
🏨 Accommodation & Transport
| Deliller InnHotel, per night | ~500–800 TRY |
| Hotels in central Diyarbakır | ~400–1,000 TRY |
| Minibus/taxi within the city | ~20–50 TRY |
Good to know
Practical notes.
Wear long trousers into the mosques
The Great Mosque and the Hazrat Suleiman Mosque enforce a strict dress code. Women should cover their heads and men should wear long trousers.
Comfortable shoes are a must
The walls run 5.5 km, and the İçkale and Mardin Gate areas involve a lot of walking. The Keçi Tower hill is a climb.
Carry cash
Ciğerci Remzi, Selim Amca and the tea gardens prefer cash. Card terminals sometimes cause problems.
Very hot in summer
Diyarbakır can top 40°C in summer. Sightsee early in the morning or toward evening. Bring water, a hat and sunscreen.
Photos from the top of the walls
The Tigris River, the waterfall and the Keçi Tower look best from the top of the walls. Sunset is ideal.
İçkale museum hours
Museums are usually open 08:00–17:00 and may be closed on Mondays. Check before you go.
Wrapping up
The Diyarbakır tour is over. Go back to the Türkiye page for the other two southeastern routes.
The call to prayer that has not fallen silent in 1,400 years, basalt walls and delicious southeastern cuisine. Set aside at least one full day.
Back to the Türkiye page
Discover the other two routes as well: Zerzevan Castle and the Hasuni Caves.