Travel Guide
India
From Chennai to Amritsar, Goa beaches to Jaisalmer’s golden fort, Mumbai’s crowds to the backstreets of the Taj Mahal. Trains, thalis, hospitality and endless chaos.
In short
India was the longest and densest part of the route. First day in Chennai: metro, haze (actually dust), cows, the problem of not selling SIMs to foreigners.
Route
Main stops and practical notes from the videos.
First day · metro · temples
Metro next to the airport. Ticket ~50 rupees. On the metro women left (pink), men right. People sleeping on blankets in the streets, cows, dust/smoke everywhere.
First train · Chinese fishing nets
Sleeper train better than expected. Bus is a “death machine”, windows open, rain comes in. Fort Kochi: 70-year-old steam boilers, Chinese fishing nets are iconic.
Anjuna · Orambol · disappointment
Called “India’s Antalya” but beaches are dirty, sewage flows into the sea, trash is burned, air is smoky, hard to breathe. Anjuna Flea market is chaotic.
World’s 4th most crowded city
Train ~2.5 $. Hostel 2.5–3.5 $ (Mango Mar, Ostello — hot water, kitchen, clean beds). Dhobi Ghat: 1890s British colonial era, tens of thousands of clothes a day.
My favourite city
Small, warm, cheap. Mary Guest House ~4 $, courtyard, clean, roof view. Islamic and Buddhist flags on rooftops. Camel carts, ezan calls and quiet streets.
Golden fort · living city
13-hour train ~205 rupees. Desert city, dust/smoke. Fort 12th century (~800 years), town still inside: streets are works of art, details incredible.
Blue city · hundreds of eagles
Mehrangarh Fort ~500 years old, spiral paths, mirror rooms, thrones, rifles, miniatures. Hundreds of falcons/eagles around the fort.
Cleanest city · lakes
Lakes, palaces, food. One of India’s cleanest-feeling cities. (Details in the videos.) Rajasthan’s peaceful face.
Holy lake · 400 temples
Hindu pilgrimage centre. ~400 temples around the lake. People enter the lake to wash away sins (water is dirty). Monkey families, dogs.
Taj Mahal · 5 $ view hotel
Taj Mahal view from a 5-dollar hotel. Entry ~1100–1300 rupees (inside + free shoe covers). 1631–1653, Shah Jahan for his wife, finished in 20 years.
25-hour train · Golden Temple
Longest train journey (~25 hours, ~300 rupees / 3.5 $). Season changed, jacket on. Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib): Sikhism’s holiest site. Free langar 24h.
Stay, transport & food
🛏️ Konaklama
Hostel / shared room 2.5–6 $. Chennai ~6 $, Mumbai 2.5–3.5 $ (Ostello clean, kitchen), Bikaner ~4 $, Jaisalmer 4–5 $ (fort view).
🚂 Transport
Long trains 3–4 $ (600 km ~3 $, 14 hours ~3.5 $, 25 hours ~3.5 $). Sleeper coaches better than expected but crowded; toilet trips take 10 minutes of waiting.
🍽️ Yemek
Thali (unlimited rice + sides) ~70 rupees (~1 $), they refill when empty. Biryani, samosa, kachori, pav, momos 0.4–2 $. Thali and bread unlimited.
💡 Pratik
SIMs for foreigners are hard in some places. Cards work but cash is preferred. ATM fee ~200 rupees / 10,000. Trash burning and smoke everywhere. Cows on the roads are normal.
Key points
Jaisalmer Fort
12th c., town still lives inside. Street details are art. Free from the back gate.
Jodhpur Mehrangarh
500-year fort, hundreds of falcons/eagles, mirror rooms, stepwells. Blue city views.
Amritsar Golden Temple
Heart of Sikhism. Free langar 24h. Head covering + shoe deposit required.
Taj Mahal
Agra. Finished in 20 years, white marble, Quran verses. Entry ~1100+ rupees. Back streets are lively.
Dhobi Ghat
Mumbai. Open-air laundry for 140 years. 70k pieces a day, next to skyscrapers.
Chor Bazaar
Thieves’ Market. Legend of lost items. Antiques, copies, everything.
Bikaner
Warmest and cheapest city. Rooftop flags, camels, call to prayer, 4 $ clean hotel.
Goa reality
Hyped beaches are dirty and smoky. Anjuna/Arambol did not meet expectations.
Gallery
Places along the route — current images from Wikipedia.
Videos
27 videos — each 240 px, click to play.
