Travel Guide
Iran
Three months, fifteen cities: from Isfahan’s open-air museum to Hormuz’s Valley of Colours, from Yazd’s wind towers to Shushtar’s 2500-year-old water systems. Hospitality, cheapluk ve derin tarih.
In short
Iran was not on the planned route. When I could not cross from Iraq to Azerbaijan, the road led to Iran; after three months and fifteen cities it became a place I was glad I came to. People are warm and hospitable; many invite you home. Extremely cheap for tourists (hotel 3–5 $, food 1–2 $, taxi ~0.5 $) because local wages are low and foreign currency is strong. Cards (Visa/Mastercard) do not work; cash and black-market exchange are essential. WhatsApp, Instagram and YouTube are banned — without a VPN you cannot work. Dress modestly; shorts are banned in mosques and short shorts can cause issues on the metro. Food variety is limited (kebab, eggplant, liver, fast-food heavy); less variety than Turkey. In return the depth of history is incredible: every street has a mosque, palace or caravanserai. Isfahan “half the world”, Shiraz’s pink mosque, Yazd’s wind towers, Hormuz’s Valley of Colours, Qeshm’s Valley of Stars and Shushtar’s 2500-year-old water engineering are unforgettable.
Route
Main stops and practical notes from the videos.
Capital and first impressions
Heavy exhaust smell. While the original plan was Azerbaijan, a friend’s advice led to a detour to Isfahan. Currency is exchanged in the black-market bazaar; offers for 100 $ vary around 47–49, bargaining is normal. The Snap app is essential for taxis; very cheap and reliable.
Open-air museum · Naqsh-e Jahan
UNESCO. Naqsh-e Jahan Square is the world’s second-largest square. From the top of Ali Qapu Palace (48 m, Safavid era) you see the whole square. Shah Mosque (1611) is magnificent. Chehel Sotoun, Vank Cathedral, the bridges over the Zayandeh River. Truly an open-air museum.
Ali Shah Citadel · bazaar · earthquake
One of Iran’s largest historic citadels, Ali Shah (Ilkhanid / Safavid). Musalla Mosque is open only for Friday prayer. City museum, Behnam House (colourful). The bazaar is huge. The city still carries marks of earthquakes.
Pink Mosque · Vakil · historic houses
Nasir al-Mulk (Pink Mosque, 1876) — a dance of colours in the morning sun, one of the world’s most colourful mosques. Vakil Mosque (Zand period). Shohret Hotel ~5 $. Historic houses and tombs. Mirror work in Shah Cheragh is stunning.
Coast · tent · Valley of Colours
The plan was Yazd but with no bus, a sudden decision for Bandar Abbas. Legal tent camps on the coast. Seyyed Mozaffar / Grand Mosque; shorts not allowed for mosque entry. Hormuz: red soil, iron sparkles, salt caves, red sea — the Valley of Colours is unforgettable.
Valley of Stars · Chahkooh Canyon
The island is almost like a city. Taxi 10 min ~0.5 $. Platform tent camps on the coast. Even in November ~35 °C. Salt water has high buoyancy — swimming is easy. Valley of Stars and Chahkooh Canyon are natural wonders.
Ganjali Khan · Grand Mosque · Shazdeh Garden
Ganjali Khan complex (1596–1621, bathhouse, bazaar, inscriptions). Caravanserai hotel. Grand Mosque (~750, restored, three gates). Wide palm-lined bazaar. Shazdeh Garden (green valley in the middle of the desert, perfect entrance). Hotels ~10 $; night bus to Yazd 2 $.
Wind towers · Dowlatabad · Amir Chakhmaq
Mud-brick city. Wind towers (badgir) still in use; the tower in Dowlatabad Garden is the world’s tallest mud-brick wind tower (UNESCO Iranian gardens). Amir Chakhmaq Mosque / complex. Old water and food stores. Invitation to a local girl’s home + table. Carpet shops.
Historic houses · Agha Bozorg
Sana Hostel (old fabric, highly rated). Agha Bozorg Mosque (18th c., multi-level, with wind towers). Tabatabaei House (~4400 m², 40 rooms, 1880, Persian architecture). Borujerdi House (built for a bride). Many historic houses under renovation / decaying — visit carefully. Quiet streets.
UNESCO water systems · 15 heritage sites
While Isfahan has 2 UNESCO sites, Shushtar has ~15. Historic hydraulic system (from Achaemenid times, 2500 years): tunnels, mills, gates, hand-dug canals. An engineering marvel. Hotel prices 12–15 $ (high for the country). Liver 3–4 skewers ~1.5 $.
Stepped village · ice-cold spring
Kurdish region. Palangan stepped village, like a film set. Ice-cold spring water (living water), waterfalls, stream, mulberry trees. Tea 0.25 $. Unlimited hospitality in a local home. Some historic sites (Taq-e Bostan) were closed due to war / missile period; camera restrictions.
Transport, accommodation and food
Real amounts from the videos (approx. $).
🚌 Transport
| Intercity bus (e.g. Isfahan–Tabriz) | ~7 $ |
| Kerman–Yazd night bus | ~2 $ |
| Snap taksi 5 km | ~0.5 $ |
| City bus | ~0.06 $ |
| Hormuz / Qeshm vapur (turist) | ~4 $ |
| Hormuz / Qeshm vapur (yerli) | ~2 $ |
The Snap app is essential. VIP buses are more comfortable but regular buses are fine.
🛏️ Konaklama & yemek
| Tipik otel / hostel | 3–5 $ |
| Shiraz Shohret Hotel | ~5 $ |
| Tabriz hotel example | ~4 $ |
| Kerman otel | ~10 $ |
| Shushtar otel | 12–15 $ |
| Tent camp (coast / park) | Free / legal |
| Kebab / Adana style | 2–2.5 $ |
| Eggplant dish | 1–2 $ |
| Liver 3–4 skewers | ~1.5 $ |
| Whole chicken | ~4 $ |
Many hotels have a shared kitchen and unlimited tea.
Places to see
Highlights from the videos.
Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Isfahan. World’s second-largest square, UNESCO. Ali Qapu + Shah Mosque.
Nasir al-Mulk (Pink Mosque)
Shiraz. Colour dance in morning sun. 1876, Qajar period.
Yazd Wind Towers
Dowlatabad the tallest mud-brick badgir. Still working natural air-con.
Hormuz Valley of Colours
Red soil, iron sparkles, salt caves, red sea.
Qeshm Valley of Stars
Natural erosion sculptures. Together with Chahkooh Canyon.
Kashan Tarihi Evler
Tabatabaei (40 oda), Borujerdi. Pers mimarisi zirvesi.
Shushtar Water Systems
2500-year hydraulic engineering. UNESCO multi-site.
Palangan Village
Stepped Kurdish village, ice spring, waterfall, like a film set.
Ali Shah / Ganjali Khan
Tabriz citadel and Kerman complex. Safavid and Ilkhanid traces.
Shah Cheragh & Mirror Work
Shiraz shrines. Ceilings and walls covered in mirrors.
Shazdeh Garden
Kerman. Green valley in the middle of the desert, UNESCO Iranian gardens.
Legal Tent Camps
Coast and park platforms. Common and legal nationwide.
Photos
Selected images of places mentioned in the subtitles (Wikipedia).
Practical warnings
Cards do not work
No Visa / Mastercard. Bring enough cash. Exchange on the black market; for 100 $ around 47–49. Bargain is normal.
VPN required
WhatsApp, Instagram, YouTube and many sites are blocked. Without a reliable VPN, communication and uploads are impossible.
Dress rules
Shorts banned in mosques. Short shorts can cause issues on the metro and some places. Below-knee is safer.
Snap taxi
Local Uber-like. 5 km ~0.5 $. Clean cars, fair price. Try it before you leave.
Tents are legal
In many cities pitching a tent in parks and on coast platforms is free and common.
Food expectations
Limited variety. Kebab, eggplant, liver, fast-food heavy. Days spent 3 hours looking for a restaurant happened.
Language advantage
Those who know Kurdish can understand some Persian. Numbers are similar. People are warm and helpful.
Cheap for tourists
Local salary ~300 $. With tourist currency everything is ridiculously cheap. Including hotel, a day on 10 $ is possible.
Videos
Selected clips from the Iran series (240 px).
Cheap, deep, hospitable
Iran is a price paradise for tourists; hard for locals. No cards, VPN required, dress rules apply. Still attractive enough to stay 3 months: every city is a different museum.
Come with cash, a VPN and modest clothes; history and people will surprise you.
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