Travel Guide
Cambodia
From the vast temples of Angkor Wat to the clear waters of Koh Rong. Poverty, genocide memorials, friendly people and 3–6 dollar stays.
In short
I flew from Malaysia to Phnom Penh. The visa was 30 $ for 30 days and took 5 minutes; nobody asked for a hotel booking or a return ticket. Once you leave the airport the country looks underdeveloped: traffic has no rules, roads are broken, everyone drives however they like.
The Killing Fields (Choeung Ek) in Phnom Penh are a heavy stop. In 1975, under the Khmer Rouge, about 1 million people were killed; skulls are displayed at the memorial, entry 6 $. There are the Central Market, the Independence Monument and 7-Elevens. The dollar is used more than the local currency; price tags show both riel and dollars.
I took the bus to Siem Reap (~8 hours, 10 $). A 3 $ hotel had a pool + billiards + bar. Angkor tickets: 1 day 37 $, 3 days 62 $, 7 days 72 $. I went at 4:30 am for sunrise. Angkor Wat was built in the 12th century over 30 years, with stones brought from 70 km away; including the forest, the site covers thousands of km². The smiling faces of Bayon, trees swallowing the temple at Ta Prohm, Preah Khan… Motorbike 8 $/day, tuk-tuk around 15 $.
Sihanoukville: dirt roads, friendly people (a girl I asked for directions said “hop on, I’ll take you”), expensive supermarkets (a security guard earns 280 $). Ferry to Koh Rong; 6–7 $ motel, flour-white sand, clear sea. 13 $ for an 8-hour boat tour. The island is a bit messy but the beaches are paradise.
Route
Main stops from the videos.
Capital · Killing Fields
Easy visa (30 $). Traffic chaos, no rules on the road. Choeung Ek memorial: the 1975 genocide, skulls, 6 $ entry. Central Market, Independence Monument. Prices in both dollars and riel. There is a 7-Eleven.
Gateway to Angkor
3 $ hotel (pool, billiards, bar). Bus ~8–10 $. Motorbike 8 $/day. Angkor 1-day ticket 37 $. Go early in the morning, it gets crowded.
World’s largest temple complex
12th century, Hindu → Buddhist. Built over 30 years, stones from Kulen Mountain. Bayon (face towers), Ta Prohm (trees fused with the structure), Preah Khan, Neak Pean (healing pools). Sleeveless shirts are banned in some places.
Coast · dirt roads
Unpaved roads, a rubbish-dump look, construction everywhere. People are very friendly. Supermarket prices are high (bread 4 $, security guard salary 280 $). Some beaches have litter too.
Paradise island
Round-trip ferry (flexible return). 6–7 $ motel. Clear water, flour-white sand. 13 $ for an 8-hour boat tour (diving + beaches). The Long Beach walk can be tough (ants, spider webs).
Transport, stay and food
Bus & ferry
Phnom Penh–Siem Reap ~8–10 $. Sleeper buses available. The Koh Rong ferry is round-trip with a flexible return.
3–6 $ stays
3 $ in Siem Reap (with pool), 6–7 $ on Koh Rong. May not be as luxurious as the photos.
Motorbike & tuk-tuk
For Angkor: motorbike 8 $/day, tuk-tuk ~15 $. Traffic has no rules; be careful.
Food 2–3.5 $
Rice + egg + meat + salad is the classic. 3–3.5 $ is filling on the island.
Dollars accepted
Dual riel + USD price tags. Dollars are easier almost everywhere. Carry small notes.
Dress code
Sleeveless shirts are banned at some Angkor temples. Carry a spare shirt with sleeves.
Places to see
Angkor Wat
The world’s largest religious structure. Sunrise is legendary. One day is not enough, but at least the main temple + Bayon + Ta Prohm.
Bayon
Smiling faces on 37 towers. 1200s. You may recognise it from the Lara Croft film.
Ta Prohm
The iconic place where trees swallow the temple. Roots and stone are intertwined.
Killing Fields
Choeung Ek. Heavy but important. 6 $ entry. Facing history.
Koh Rong
Clear sea, white sand. Long Beach and boat tours. The island is a bit messy but the beaches are superb.
Central Phnom Penh
Central Market, Independence Monument, Royal Palace area.
Photos
Practical warnings
Dollar + riel
Dollars are easier in most places. Carry small notes. Rate ~1 $ = 4,000+ riel.
Clothing
Sleeveless is banned in some Angkor areas. A spare shirt with sleeves is a must.
Traffic
Hardly any rules. Everyone does their own thing. Be careful.
Island paths
On Koh Rong the shortcut is sometimes full of ants and spider webs. The coastal route is longer but easier.
Prices
Local wages are low (security ~280 $). Supermarket and tourist prices can feel relatively high.
People
Very friendly. When you ask for directions, someone may put you on their motorbike and take you there.
Videos
The complete Cambodia series (5 videos).
From Angkor to the islands
Cambodia offers heavy history (the Killing Fields), the world’s most impressive temple complex (Angkor) and paradise islands (Koh Rong) all in one place. Cheap stays, friendly people and the dollar being accepted make it practical.
Bring cash dollars, a shirt with sleeves and patience; Cambodia will both shake you and enchant you.
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