Travel Guide
Sri Lanka
From Colombo’s chaos to Ella’s tea plantations and Anuradhapura’s 2,250-year-old Bodhi tree. Warm people, cheap trains and the legendary Nine Arch Bridge.
In short
Sri Lanka is an island country just south of India. At first glance it greets you with exhaust fumes, old buses and rough beaches. But its people are so warm that they make you forget every negative. A tuk-tuk driver gives you a free ride, takes you under his umbrella on the road, and there are smiling faces on every corner.
Crowded markets and a mosque for 10,000 people in Colombo, a lake and mixed hostels in Kandy, one of the world’s most beautiful train views in Ella, a 2,250-year-old Bodhi tree and giant stupas in Anuradhapura… The food is close to the Turkish palate and prices are incredibly good. Visa on arrival ~$50–60.
Route
Day one, markets, mosques, Beira Lake
By old bus from the airport into the city (~1.5 hours). Exhaust fumes hang like fog, there are few pavements and red lights barely seem to exist. But people are incredibly helpful; a tuk-tuk driver charged nothing for a short ride. A 4-dish meal ~400 LKR (~$1.3). Gangaramaya Buddhist temple (shoes off), Beira Lake (pelicans + rubbish), Colombo’s biggest mosque (10,000-person capacity). At the markets: 100% cotton shorts $5, flip-flops $1, a bag $10. SIM cards are pricey at the airport, half the price in the city.
Lake city, mixed hostel, Independence Square
By train or bus from Colombo. Drop-in Hostel ~$6.5 (8-bed room, mixed). Kandy Lake sits in the middle of the city, with ducks, swans and iguanas. Independence Memorial (freedom from British colonial rule in 1948). Little shrines on the streets and evil-eye-bead-like objects. People eat with their hands and almost never wear shorts (even in the heat).
3+ hours above the clouds
Kandy → Ella train ticket, 3rd class ~300 LKR (~$1). Tea plantations, waterfalls, misty mountains, free hot water on the train. People travel hanging out of the windows. Nine Arch Bridge is an Instagram phenomenon; it can sometimes be closed because of film shoots. The cliff view from Ella View, with clouds clinging to the hilltops.
Tea, waterfalls, rough beaches
Ella hostels $4–6. You can climb down to an 80-metre waterfall. Bus to the southern beaches ~$1. Galle Face, Mirissa, Hikkaduwa area: the sea is extremely rough, swimming is almost impossible. Note: “we couldn’t find a sea to swim in”. Buffalo curd + hot bread, with crows snatching the bread mid-air. A coconut for 12 lira.
Ancient capital, a 2,250-year-old tree
Possibly Sri Lanka’s most mysterious and most beautiful city. Ruwanwelisaya stupa (2nd century BC), Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi (taken from the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment, 2,250 years old, supported by iron props). Isurumuniya and Mirisawetiya temples. Red soil, villas in the forest, squirrels, colourful birds. Hostel/villa ~$3.5 (even if you stay alone). Dogs on every corner, be careful.
Train north, a small airport
Train from Anuradhapura towards Jaffna ~$1–1.5. Jaffna airport is very small, closes at 19:00 in the evening, and there is no public transport from the city. Locals hosted us and offered tea. The India visa was obtained for 3+3 months (6 months) at the same price. Crossing to India by small propeller plane.
Accommodation & Transport & Food
| Item | Price | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Hostel / villa | $3.5–6.5 | Ella & Anuradhapura are cheaper, Colombo a bit pricier |
| 4-dish meal (rice + curry) | $1–1.5 | 400–450 LKR, unlimited bread/sides |
| Train (3rd class, long distance) | $1–2 | Kandy–Ella ~300 LKR, Colombo–Matara ~600 LKR |
| Bus (intercity) | $0.5–1.5 | Nicknamed the “death machine”, cheap but bumpy |
| Tuk-tuk (short) | Free – $1 | Some drivers don’t charge for short distances |
| Visa (on arrival) | ~$50–60 | 1 month; safer to get it online beforehand |
Minimum wage ~17,500–20,000 LKR (~$45–60). Supermarkets are cheaper than corner shops. Ceylon tea is everywhere. People eat with their hands, spoons are rare. Rain comes and goes suddenly; December–April is drier.
Photo Gallery
Videos
11 videos — tap to play.
Practical Notes
- If possible, get the visa online a week in advance; it can also be obtained on arrival but problems can come up.
- Ticket checks on trains are usually done as you get off.
- The beaches are good for surfing but dangerous for swimming (very rough).
- Rain hits suddenly; keep a thin raincoat with you.
- Dogs are everywhere — be careful.
- People are very warm; smiling and saying “thank you” opens doors.
Warm people, cheap trains, a legendary bridge
Sri Lanka greets you with exhaust fumes and rough beaches, but its people are so warm that they wipe out every negative. From Colombo’s markets to Ella’s tea plantations and Anuradhapura’s 2,250-year-old Bodhi tree, there is a smile on every corner. Hostels $3.5–6.5, food $1–1.5, trains $1–2. Don’t go home without seeing the Nine Arch Bridge.
December–April is drier. Go, smile, say thank you.
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