Travel Guide
Taiwan
Easy entry from Korea, Taipei’s wide avenues, free water dispensers, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, night markets, Rainbow Village and Hualien’s nature. A tech island, friendly people and a place that is genuinely easy to live in.
In short
Taiwan was the place I call “the easiest country I have ever crossed into.” When I left Korea and boarded the plane, I still had stories about “visas, return tickets and strict policies” ringing in my ears. I wrote a hotel address on the form off the top of my head and they stamped my passport without saying a word. It was all a myth.
When I landed in Taipei, the first things I noticed were the wide avenues and the thick overhangs on the buildings. In Japan and Korea you wander around like a ghost; here every eye is on you and people are more curious. The architecture doesn’t look like other Asian countries, the streets are airy and the road markings are spotless.
I didn’t buy water for a whole week. There are cold and hot water dispensers in hotels, parks, metro stations, even at the airport. The upper floor of 7-Elevens is practically a café. A 15-day unlimited-data SIM costs around $2. When exchanging dollars, go only to Bank of Taiwan; other banks charge a $3 commission, and some may also deduct half a dollar on certain $100 bills.
The food scene is rich, but pork is very common, so be careful. Night markets, chicken, tofu, noodles and local flavors run $1–5. In Taichung, the $8 hotel had a Yamaha piano, a kitchen, and free coffee and water. Around Hualien there were waterfall hikes, monkeys and mountain views. Overall it became a country I liked more than Japan and Korea, one that boosted my motivation. It has its expensive side too (grocery prices, some meals), but it is livable and friendly.
Route
Main stops from the videos and practical notes.
Busan to Taipei · easy stamp
On my last day in Korea, while swimming at Busan beach, I said, “Tomorrow, Taiwan.” I was the only foreigner on the plane. At passport control I wrote an address and hotel name on the form off the top of my head; they stamped it without asking a single question. The return-ticket requirement and the strict visa stories turned out to be completely exaggerated. I exchanged $20 for 603 TWD. The sockets are the same as in Japan (small prongs).
Day one · wide avenues · memorial
From the airport the tram is 150 TWD (~$5); the bus is a bit cheaper and the metro is also an option. The first hotel was a cramped shared room with no kitchen (not as advertised). The building windows have iron bars, as if there were worries about theft. The Chiang Kai-shek Memorial is huge, and elderly people do aerobics to music. There is an old temple from the 1700s, a sunset, a custom of throwing fortune stones, and next to it a flea market (old coins, cameras, glasses, even golf balls). The red lights last incredibly long.
Night market · food prices
At the night market: chicken, beef, a tofu-kimchi mix, noodles. Portions are sometimes small but tasty. Chicken is about $3, beef about $5. In supermarkets (PX Mart is cheapest) milk is ~$2.8 per liter, a 10-pack of eggs ~$1.5, and noodle packs are small and $1+. Minimum wage is ~$900, a teacher’s salary around $2000. $1 ≈ 31 TWD.
Train · Rainbow Village · $8 hotel
The Taipei–Taichung train is 240 TWD (~$8); the bus is a bit more expensive. On the rainy night there were people sleeping on the floor at the station. The $8 hotel: lobby, terrace, kitchen, free water-coffee-tea, an 8-person room and, most importantly, a Yamaha piano. Rainbow Village: walls painted by a retired man out of boredom, now known worldwide but actually a small place. The night market plan was cancelled because of rain.
Waterfall · monkeys · mountain
Bus + train combo from Taipei ~$9. Self check-in hotels. A waterfall hike, a dry riverbed, monkeys, and advice to carry a stick (dogs/wild animals). A city view from the mountaintop. After Taipei’s concrete, the nature side is truly refreshing.
Sri Lanka via Malaysia
$7.5 bus from Taichung to Taipei. Hot water at the airport again. Connecting flight: Taiwan → Malaysia (12-hour wait) → Sri Lanka. Sometimes no exit stamp is given (it was the same in Korea). Even when the money ran out, I bought chocolate and boarded the plane.
Transport, stay and food
Real prices and practical observations.
Train & bus
Intercity train $5–9. Taipei–Taichung ~$8, Taichung–Taipei return ~$7.5. In most cities the bus terminal and the train station are side by side, a 2–3 minute walk. The fast trains are clean and modern.
Hostel $8–11
Shared rooms in Taipei can be cramped. The $8 hotel in Taichung (piano + kitchen + free drinks) is the value champion. Self check-in is common. Places rated 9+ on Agoda are a good pick.
Street food $1–5
Night markets are a must. The chicken is melt-in-your-mouth, and some dishes taste like gözleme (Turkish flatbread). Pork is very common, so ask. There are tofu + kimchi-like flavors. Portions are sometimes small.
Never buy water
Hotels, parks, metro, airport, 7-Eleven… cold and hot water dispensers everywhere. I didn’t buy a single bottle of water for a whole week. A good cup + Lipton tea combo is a lifesaver.
Only Bank of Taiwan
Other banks charge a $3 commission. On some $100 bills (the marked ones) they deduct half a dollar. Carry cash.
SIM & masks
15-day unlimited internet ~$2 (around 800 TWD). Most people still wear masks — it was the most masked country I have seen.
Sights & key points
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial
A giant structure, like a fortress wall. In its garden, elderly people do aerobics to music. It is dedicated to Chiang Kai-shek, the China-born commander and politician.
Rainbow Village (Taichung)
Walls painted by a retired man out of boredom. At first it drew backlash, then it became world-famous. Small but colorful and photogenic.
Old temples (1700s)
Chinese architecture and the custom of throwing fortune stones (how they land decides whether a wish is accepted or rejected). Next to it is a flea market: old coins, cameras, glasses, even golf balls.
Hualien nature & waterfall
A hiking trail, monkeys, a dry creek, mountain views. Carry a stick. Some roads may be closed after earthquakes.
Night markets
Whatever you are looking for, it’s there. Crowded, cheap, delicious. If it rains, the overhangs protect you.
Wide avenues & overhangs
The thick overhangs on buildings protect you from both sun and rain. The avenues are much airier than in Japan/Korea — the city “breathes”.
Photos
Practical warnings
Pork is everywhere
Pork shows up in many street foods and in things simply called “meat”. Always ask, or go for vegetarian/chicken options.
Sudden rain & overhangs
The rain comes down all at once. The buildings’ thick overhangs protect you; still, it’s good to carry a small umbrella.
Long red lights
I have never waited at such long red lights in any country. Be patient; when it turns green, a seconds counter appears.
Exchange only at Bank of Taiwan
Other places charge a commission. If a $100 bill has a mark, you lose half a dollar.
Balcony bars
In many buildings the windows and balconies have iron bars. It shows that theft is a concern; keep valuables stored carefully.
Masks are still common
The country with the most mask-wearers I have seen. It isn’t mandatory, but the social habit continues.
Videos
The whole Taiwan series (7 videos).
The easiest country I have crossed into
Leaving Korea, Busan beach, easy entry, first impressions.
▶ Open on YouTube
The country that surprised me with its beauty
Hualien nature, waterfall hike, monkeys, mountain views.
▶ Open on YouTube
From Taiwan to Sri Lanka
Last night market, the plane, the Malaysia layover, farewell.
▶ Open on YouTube
Grocery prices 2024
Prices of milk, eggs, meat, noodles, fruit and vegetables, and snacks.
▶ Open on YouTubeEasy entry, airy cities, free water
Taiwan deserves the title of “the easiest country I have crossed into.” Wide avenues, thick overhangs, free water everywhere, friendly people and nature. Be careful with pork, exchange dollars only at Bank of Taiwan, and don’t miss the night markets.
Come with cash, a small umbrella and an open mind; Taiwan will surprise you.
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