Travel Guide
Albania
Albania travel guide: two days in Tirana, with an easy border crossing, colorful streets, a pyramid, an Ottoman bridge and a park full of bunkers. Prices in USD.
Albania trip in short
I took the 09:00 morning bus from Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia; the ticket was $25. The border crossing was the easiest of this whole trip: the driver collected everyone's passports, had them signed and stamped at an office, and I never saw a police officer or a soldier. The bus dropped me off in the capital, Tirana.
At first glance Tirana is crowded and the streets are littered, but the center turns out to be wide and clean. Skanderbeg Square, the Haji Et'hem Bey Mosque, the Clock Tower, Rinia Park, a pyramid and the 18th-century Tanners' Bridge were the main stops. On a sunny day the city sparkles.
For food, Elbasan tava is the most famous dish: meat baked with yogurt. Börek and pastries are loved here as everywhere in the Balkans. Supermarket prices are not cheap; the cheapest pasta starts at around $0.8.
Neighborhood culture is still alive in the city: kids play ball in the street and old people sit on benches. There are few young people and many elderly. The country has about 2.3 million people (2026), and roughly half of them are Muslim (2023 census).
2-day Tirana itinerary
From leaving Skopje to the Kosovo ticket, in order.
Bus from Skopje to Tirana
I left the hotel at 08:00 and went to the Skopje terminal; the bus left at 09:00. The ticket was $25. With an hour to spare I stopped at a market and spent the last of my coins. Looking at the map, I realized I was right in the middle of Albania: it felt as if the exit and the entry had both happened at the same border gate.
The easiest border crossing
The driver collected everyone's passports on the bus, had them signed and stamped at an office, and brought them back. Albania was the easiest country I have crossed into; I saw neither police nor soldiers. The SIM card I bought in Macedonia worked in Albania too; apparently it works in all the Balkan countries.
Tirana terminal, ATM and city bus
At the terminal I asked about the ticket to the next country, Kosovo: $15. At the ATM in front of it I withdrew $100, which came to about 8,000 lek (in 5,000 and 1,000 notes). I boarded a bus at the stop next to the terminal; the ticket was about $0.5 and it went straight to my hotel. I got off two stops early and explored the city on foot.
Crowds, litter, a bike lane
The first things I noticed in the city were the crowds and the litter-covered streets. There are shops like Flo and Cotton. A bike lane runs down the middle between two asphalt roads.
A hostel that is also a restaurant
The hostel is a restaurant as well. Neighborhood culture is still alive here: people sit on benches, kids play ball, women watch them. I hadn't seen anything like it in a long time. I stepped into a small-doored market from the outside and checked the prices.
Börek, Skanderbeg and the Et'hem Bey Mosque
First I bought börek and pastries, some with cheese inside; all of it came to about $4 and I was stuffed. A stage was being set up in Skanderbeg Square. I looked at the monument of the national hero Skanderbeg, then went to the Haji Et'hem Bey Mosque. There was quite a line to get in. As soon as I walked in I said "I'm Muslim" and the man said "of course, young man."
Kapllan Pasha's Tomb, Tirana Castle
Next to Kapllan Pasha's Tomb there is a skyscraper; a historic monument preserved inside the modern city. I couldn't see Tirana Castle: there is no castle to speak of, just restaurants, bars and souvenir shops on both sides.
Elbasan tava at Laura
To eat Elbasan tava, Albania's most famous dish, I went to a restaurant called Laura. It looks like an antique shop. The meal cost about $9. It comes with the tava and a small piece of bread. Meat and yogurt are baked together; I didn't find it as good as the hype and it wasn't to my taste.
Clock Tower, Rinia Park, Pyramid
I went to the Clock Tower; construction began in 1822 (it was raised to 35 m in 1928), and it turned out to be right next to the mosque I visited the day before. Rinia Park, one of the city's most famous parks, is just across. Then the Orthodox Church (Resurrection of Christ) and the stream flowing under the iron-profile sculptures on the bridge. Then I went to the city's most interesting building, the Tirana Pyramid: it is not a shopping mall inside; it has been renovated into a tech education center (TUMO) with cafés. Climbing to the top I counted 111 steps; there is an elevator but it wasn't working. The view from the top is great.
Bunkers and a piece of the Berlin Wall
There are a few bunkers in the park that look very old; I went inside and had a look. A piece of wall brought from the Berlin Wall is there, but it's covered in paint. A white pigeon suddenly came and landed next to me.
Namazgah Mosque and Tanners' Bridge
The Namazgah Mosque is quite large: about 10,000 people can pray at the same time including the courtyard, and it is the largest mosque in the Balkans. It opened in October 2024, so it has no long history. Then I crossed the Tanners' Bridge, built by the Ottomans in the 1700s; one of the city's oldest structures, and the stones are slippery. Somewhere I also saw a building with a mosque on top and a café below.
Toptani and the road to Kosovo
The Toptani shopping center has many familiar brands. I found the same pair of shoes at the same price in Türkiye and in Albania (about $160). Next stop is Kosovo: the ticket from the Tirana terminal is $15.
Things to see in Tirana
Main stops in Tirana.
Skanderbeg Square
The city's main square. The monument to national hero Skanderbeg stands here. A stage was being set up when I visited.
Haji Et'hem Bey Mosque
Built between 1791 and around 1821. Entry is officially free with a donation box; at the entrance they collect money from foreigners and tourists. There is a line in front.
Kapllan Pasha's Tomb
A skyscraper stands right next to it. A historic monument preserved inside a modern city.
Clock Tower
Construction began in 1822; it was raised to 35 m in 1928. Right next to the Et'hem Bey Mosque.
Rinia Park
One of the city's most famous parks. It has benches and wide lawns.
Tirana Pyramid
The city's most interesting architectural design. It is no longer an empty shell: it now holds the TUMO education center and cafés. It is about 110 steps to the top (I counted 111) and free to climb; there is an elevator but it wasn't working when I went. The view is great.
Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral
In the center, one of the places you can stop by on your route.
Namazgah Mosque
Very large: about 10,000 people can pray at once including the courtyard, the biggest mosque in the Balkans. It opened in October 2024, so it has little history.
Tanners' Bridge
A bridge built by the Ottomans in the 1700s, one of the city's oldest structures. The stones are slippery, so be careful.
Bunkers and a piece of the Berlin Wall
There are bunkers and a piece of the Berlin Wall inside the park. The wall is covered in paint.
Toptani Shopping Center
A big mall with many familiar brands.
Tirana Castle
There is almost no castle left; there are restaurants, bars and souvenir shops on both sides.
Details you notice in Tirana
Odd and lovable things around the city.
Neighborhood culture
People sit on benches, kids play ball in the street, women watch.
Elderly everywhere
There are old people everywhere and very few young people.
Bike lane in the middle of the road
A bike lane runs right between two asphalt roads.
Iron-profile sculptures
There are sculptures made of iron profiles on the bridge, with a stream flowing underneath.
A shining city
The sky is bright blue and the city sparkles on a sunny day.
Seed-eating drivers
The bus drivers were eating sunflower seeds.
Albania prices: transport and food in USD
In US dollars (USD), approximate; $1 ≈ 82 lek (Oct 2026). Key amounts.
🍽️ Food and transport
| Elbasan tavaLaura restaurant | ~$9 |
| Börek / pastry | ~$4 |
| City busterminal–hotel | ~$0.5 |
| Skopje → Tirana bus | ~$25 |
| Tirana → Pristina bus | ~$15 |
Börek and pastries are filling. Elbasan tava is meat baked with yogurt; taste varies. A Macedonian SIM can work across the Balkans.
Albania travel video
The Albania journey video. Click the card and the video opens here.
Albania travel tips: what to know before you go
Practical notes.
The border is very easy
The driver collects the passports and gets them stamped at the office. Be ready to hand your passport to the driver.
Change your leks in Kosovo
Exchanging leftover leks into euros in Pristina worked out better than the Western Union offer in Tirana (for about $27 worth of lek: €22 ≈ $26 in Pristina versus €17 ≈ $20 at Western Union).
ATM in front of the terminal
There is an ATM right in front of the Tirana terminal. I withdrew about $100 worth of lek here.
One SIM, many countries
The SIM bought in North Macedonia worked in Albania too; it works across the Balkan countries.
The city bus is cheap
The bus from the terminal to the city is about $0.5. Look for the stop next to the terminal.
Mosque entrance
At the Haji Et'hem Bey Mosque entry is officially free with a donation box, but at the entrance they collect money from foreigners and tourists. A donation is optional. There can be a line.
The pyramid elevator may be out of order
It's about 110 steps to the top and free. There is an elevator but it wasn't working when I went; wear comfortable shoes.
Is Elbasan tava a must?
It's the most famous dish but I didn't find it as good as the hype. Börek and pastries are cheaper and filling.
Clothing prices same as Türkiye
I found the same shoes at Toptani at the Turkish price (about $160); it's not worth coming just for shopping.
Albania travel FAQ
Do I need a visa for Albania?
As a Turkish citizen I needed no visa: Turkish passport holders can stay up to 90 days within any 180-day period, and the passport must be valid for at least 3 months beyond the entry date. I crossed by bus from Skopje: the driver collected everyone's passports and had them stamped at an office, and I saw no police or soldiers. Other nationalities and future rule changes: check an official source before you travel.
What currency is used in Albania?
The Albanian lek (ALL), about 82 lek per $1 in October 2026. There is an ATM right in front of the Tirana bus terminal, where I withdrew about $100 worth of lek. Exchanging leftover leks into euros in Pristina worked out better than the Western Union offer in Tirana.
Is Albania expensive? What do things cost?
Elbasan tava is about $9, börek and pastries about $4, and a city bus ticket about $0.5. Supermarket prices are not cheap; the cheapest pasta starts around $0.8. I found the same shoes at Toptani at the Turkish price (about $160). The monthly minimum wage is about $610 (gross).
What are the best things to see in Tirana?
Skanderbeg Square, the Haji Et'hem Bey Mosque, the Clock Tower, Rinia Park, the Pyramid of Tirana, the Namazgah Mosque, Tanners' Bridge, Kapllan Pasha's Tomb, the bunkers in the park and the Toptani Shopping Center.
How many days do you need in Tirana?
I covered all of these in two days: the square, the mosque and Elbasan tava on day one; the Clock Tower, the park, the Pyramid, the Namazgah Mosque and Tanners' Bridge on day two.
How do I get from Skopje to Tirana by bus, and how much does it cost?
I took the 09:00 morning bus from the Skopje terminal; the ticket was $25. At the border the driver collects everyone's passports and has them stamped at an office.
How do I get from Tirana to Kosovo (Pristina)?
There is a bus from the Tirana bus terminal; the ticket is $15 and the ride takes about four hours.
Do the Et'hem Bey Mosque and the Pyramid of Tirana charge admission?
Entry to the Et'hem Bey Mosque is officially free with a donation box; when I went they were collecting money from foreigners and tourists at the entrance. Climbing the Pyramid is free: about 110 steps, and the elevator wasn't working when I went.
Do I need a SIM card in Albania?
The SIM card I bought in Macedonia worked in Albania too; apparently it works across the Balkan countries, so you may not need to buy another.
Next stop: Kosovo
I bought the Pristina ticket at the Tirana bus terminal for $15. After a four-hour ride I arrived in Kosovo.
A colorful, sunny, easy-to-walk capital; don't miss the pyramid, Tanners' Bridge and the Namazgah Mosque.
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