Travel Guide
Bosnia and Herzegovina
A week in Sarajevo: burek, Baščaršija, the scars of war and an unexpectedly hard exit plan.
In short
Arriving in Sarajevo on the night bus from Belgrade starts with disappointment: the terminal is closed, there is no internet and casino signs are all around. Once you settle in, though, Baščaršija’s Ottoman character, Turkish-speaking locals, generous burek and dolma warm you up fast.
One side of the city is history and flavour: the Latin Bridge, the cathedral, mosques, coppersmiths, baklava shops. The other side is the scars of war: the red marks on the streets, the Eternal Flame memorial, Alija Izetbegović’s grave, a park dedicated to the children killed in the war. These places deserve a quiet, respectful visit.
Prices are about 50–60% higher than in Serbia, but food is still cheap: dolma, klepe or a big burek costs about 5 euros. The weather is cold, rainy and foggy most days; it can even snow in the mountains.
The real challenge is getting out: since connecting flights through Europe are a hassle on a Turkish passport, the road leads to Egypt / Hurghada.
The journey, in order
The route from Belgrade to Egypt, section by section.
Night bus from Belgrade to Sarajevo
The bus leaves Belgrade bus terminal in the evening and reaches the Sarajevo terminal around 04:00 at night. The terminal is closed and there is no internet; it feels like a village bus station and the weather is very cold. You can change money at the exchange office next to the terminal and walk to a nearby market. From the terminal, city bus number 103 takes you to the hotel.
Supermarket shock after Serbia
The same products cost 50–60% more than in Serbia. Bread that costs 70 dinars in Serbia is 131 dinars here in Serbian dinar terms. City buses are free in Serbia, but here every ride costs about 1 euro.
Burek with meat, a hotel with a shared kitchen
On a rainy day you cross the Miljacka River and sit down for the first burek: 750 grams (500 grams potato + 250 grams meat) for about 5 euros, with more filling than dough. The hotel has a shared lounge and kitchen; you can buy ingredients outside and cook. The hotel owner treats you to kajmak and cheese.
Ottoman fountain, coppersmiths, “little Turkey”
The Ottoman fountain in Baščaršija still flows; people take photos and it is a meeting point. The pigeons are not afraid of people, and there are coppersmiths all around. Everyone walking past you in the bazaar speaks Turkish; it feels like a cloned Istanbul Spice Bazaar. Baklava shops, dessert shops and tea houses give a “little Turkey” feeling.
Mosques, Latin Bridge, cathedral, flame memorial
The old mosque in Baščaršija, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the Latin Bridge, the Sacred Heart Cathedral and the Eternal Flame memorial can all be seen on a single walking route. You may have trouble entering the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque in shorts.
Rain, closed shops, indecision
On Sunday life stops: shopping malls, supermarkets and some restaurants are closed. There is rain and fog; a jacket and umbrella are a must. Among the Balkan countries you can visit visa-free, Bosnia and Herzegovina ends up being the last stop. Other cities such as Mostar and Travnik may be postponed because of the rain.
Grocery run, bank trouble, scars of war
On a cold morning the mountains opposite may be covered in snow. In the markets you can check the prices of bread, pasta, eggs, cola, tangerines and sucuk; a bag of groceries costs 6 dollars. Withdrawing cash from an ATM with a foreign card can be difficult because of “insufficient balance” errors. The day ends in Veliki Park, among cemeteries and memorials dedicated to the martyrs.
Why Egypt?
We stayed in Sarajevo for 7 days; the reason was the weather and an undecided next stop. There are no direct flights to Morocco, and South America needs three connections. Since the connections go through France, Italy or Brussels, they are a hassle on a Turkish passport. In the end a ticket to Hurghada, Egypt is bought.
Places to see
The main stops along the route.
Baščaršija and the Ottoman fountain
The heart of the city. Coppersmiths, baklava shops, tea gardens. Pigeons and people meeting around the fountain.
The old mosque in Baščaršija
One of the oldest mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina, built in the 1600s. The names of the countries that restored it are written there, and Türkiye is among them. The ablution fountain has only four taps.
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
One of the largest mosques in the city. There are graves in its garden. You may run into trouble at the entrance because of clothing.
Latin Bridge
A bridge dating from the Ottoman era. The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand here is remembered as the start of World War I.
Sacred Heart Cathedral
Entry is paid. It was closed on the day we went; you can look from the outside and move on.
The former state building, now a library
The beautiful building on the riverbank shows the city’s “recovered” face. The TRT Balkan building is right nearby.
Photos
Places of sorrow
The scars of war. These places should be approached with respect.
Eternal Flame Memorial
Built in memory of the martyrs. The flame went out during the war years because there was no fuel gas, was relit after the war and has burned ever since.
Red marks on the streets
The red marks you see on the streets represent the places where martyrs were killed, and blood.
Alija Izetbegović’s grave
Thousands of people who died in the war are buried here too. Researching Alija Izetbegović’s life makes this visit more meaningful.
Veliki Park
A park dedicated especially to children, with cemeteries that begin right by the roadside. There are different types of headstones: turbaned, triangular and multi-sided.
Children’s cemetery
Most of the dead were between 10 and 20 years old. Names and dates of death are written; it affects you deeply.
Glass memorial and the statue of the screaming father
An unusual memorial made from window glass and a statue of a father desperately calling out to his daughter. Researching its story is recommended.
Food and transport
In convertible marks (KM / BAM).
🍽️ Food and transport
| Burekaround 750 g | 10–11 KM |
| Dolmaonion + pepper, plenty of meat | 10 KM |
| KlepeBosnian dumplings | 10 KM |
| City bus / trolleybussingle ride | ~1 € |
The bureks are generously filled; dolma and klepe are filling too. In accommodation with a shared kitchen you can cook with groceries from the market.
Videos
The Bosnia and Herzegovina journey video. Click the card and the video opens here.
Good to know
Practical notes.
Plan around Sunday
On Sunday shopping malls, supermarkets and some restaurants are closed. You can still shop at DM stores.
Change money when you leave the terminal
There is an exchange office next to the terminal, and a DM shopping centre 500 metres ahead. If you arrive at night the terminal may be closed.
Public transport is paid
Buses and trolleybuses run in the city. About 1 euro is paid for every ride.
Dress warmly
In the cold season it can be rainy and foggy. Trousers, a coat and an umbrella are a must.
Wear long trousers into mosques
Even shorts that reach below the knee can cause problems in some mosques. Trousers play it safe.
ATMs can be a hassle
Withdrawals with a foreign card can bring fees and “insufficient balance” errors. Try small amounts and ATMs of different banks.
Accommodation with a shared kitchen
The cheapest hotels may have a shared lounge and kitchen. You can buy groceries and cook your own meals.
Two days are enough
Two days is enough for Sarajevo. Cities such as Mostar and Travnik are a separate stop for trekking and nature if the weather is good.
The hard part: leaving Sarajevo
Getting to Sarajevo is easy, but the exit plan is a hassle. Flights abroad are limited and almost all of them connect through France, Italy or Brussels. Transit rules in the connecting countries can cause problems for Turkish passport holders; always check the current transit requirements of the relevant country before buying a ticket.
Intra-Europe tickets can be very cheap, like 15–20 dollars; but passport strength determines the route.
Other countries are waiting for you on the map
Spin the globe, tap a yellow country, read its story.