Travel Guide
Iraq
In northern Iraq from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah: a 5,000-year-old citadel, tea for 250 dinars, breakfast for 1,500 dinars, a zoo and an underground bazaar.
Erbil Citadel
Sulaymaniyah
ErbilIn short
In the north of Iraq I started in Erbil and went on to Sulaymaniyah. Erbil's symbol is the Erbil Citadel, counted among the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was closed for restoration, but the security guard let me in when he saw I was a foreigner.
Erbil is very crowded: it is hard to walk in the bazaar, and because the petrol is poor quality the exhaust smell is heavy. Prices are low: a tea is 250 dinars, a breakfast with cream in Sulaymaniyah is 1,500 dinars. Tea comes pre-sweetened everywhere, so remember to ask for it without sugar.
At the zoo I saw a tiger, a lion and a jaguar for the first time in my life. In Sulaymaniyah the memorial in Azadi Park moved me deeply: in a room covered with mirror shards there are thousands of names on the walls. For two days I did not see a single person in shorts or a short-sleeved T-shirt; everyone looked at me.
Money, food and transport: how much does it cost?
In dinars (IQD).
🍽️ Food and drink
| BreakfastSulaymaniyah: cream, bread, tea, water | 1,500 IQD |
| Teapre-sweetened, may come with a plate of nibbles | 250 IQD |
| Doner and meatI ate it in Sulaymaniyah's underground bazaar; the price is not mentioned in the video | – |
💵 Money
| Currency | Iraqi Dinar (IQD) |
| Banknotesthe ones I saw | 10,000 · 5,000 · 1,000 · 500 · 250 |
| Exchange officesin Erbil bazaar | bazaar |
The videos do not mention plane, bus, train or SIM card prices, so I did not write them.
Route
From Erbil to Sulaymaniyah, in order.
A 5,000-year-old citadel
It is said to date back to the Assyrian period, and the Mongols captured it in 1258. It was closed for restoration; the guard let me in. Inside there are high ceilings, cracked walls, old houses and a view of the whole city from the top. The walls are not sturdy, so be careful.
Tiger, lion, jaguar
At the entrance you buy a card with cash or by card, and you pass through the turnstile with that card. At the weekend I waited half an hour in the queue. There are two jaguars (one black), a pair of lions, an ostrich, pelicans and vultures. I could not see the tiger clearly because of the wire mesh and the greenery.
Tea, crowds, exchange
The bazaar looks like the Egyptian Bazaar: sellers of suitcases, glasses, birds, books and dresses. It is so crowded that walking is hard. At a tea stall I drank tea for 250 dinars; sugar is added automatically. I found the exchange offices in the bazaar.
Breakfast, mosque, park
I had breakfast with cream, bread, tea and water for 1,500 dinars. The mosque in the middle of the city was built in 1784 by the Ottoman governor Ibrahim Pasha; there is no carpet on the floor, only marble, and an olive tree stands in its garden. I pitched my tent behind Azadi Park and nobody saw.
Mirror shards and the underground bazaar
In the memorial room each mirror shard represents a person who was killed, and there are thousands of names on the walls. Tanks and anti-aircraft guns stand in the garden. They told me the underground bazaar has 5,000 shops.
Places to see: Erbil
Stops in the heart of northern Iraq.
Erbil Citadel
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Restoration is ongoing; if you go early in the morning there are very few people, and the view takes in the whole city.
Zoo
Tiger, lion, black and spotted jaguars, zebra, camel, pelican, vulture, hyena, monkey and more.
Erbil Bazaar
Very crowded and noisy; the exchange offices and tea stalls are here too.
Tea stall
In the evenings people go out to drink tea. Tea is 250 dinars; if you do not ask for it without sugar it comes sweetened.
Places to see: Sulaymaniyah
Mosque, park and memorials.
Ibrahim Pasha Mosque
Built in 1784; marble floor, an olive tree in the garden. The toilets are free.
Azadi Park memorial
Thousands of names in the memorial room with mirror shards; tanks and anti-aircraft guns in the garden. A place that saddens you.
Kurdish Heritage Museum
It seemed to be closed when I went; I could not go in, so ask its opening hours beforehand.
Underground bazaar
It is said to have 5,000 shops; there are olive-oil soaps and places where you can eat doner and meat.
Photos
Good to know
Practical notes.
Ask for tea without sugar
If you do not, sugar is added automatically. Tea is 250 dinars.
Change money in the bazaar
The exchange offices are in Erbil bazaar.
Dress in long clothes
For two days I did not see anyone in shorts or a short-sleeved T-shirt; when I wore them everyone looked at me.
Go to the citadel early
It can be closed because of restoration. Do not disturb the workers, and watch out for cracked walls and low stairs.
Go to the zoo early
At the weekend we waited half an hour in the queue. First you get a card with cash or by card and scan it at the turnstile.
Dirty air, poor petrol
Exhaust maintenance is not common, and the smell is heavy in the crowded bazaar. Wear comfortable shoes.
Ask about the museum beforehand
The Kurdish Heritage Museum seemed closed when I went.
Where to pitch a tent
I pitched my tent behind Azadi Park and nobody saw. Decide for yourself according to local rules.
Videos
4 videos of the northern Iraq trip. Click the card and the video opens here.
Budget note: cheap, but crowded
Tea, breakfast and bazaar shopping can be done on a low budget. The real difficulty is the crowds, the smell and closed places.
Worth a visit for the 5,000-year-old citadel and the memorials in Sulaymaniyah.
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